Guide for straw-braid-sewing machines.



R. BECKER.

GUIDE FOR STRAW BRAID SEWING MACHINES.

APPu'cmou FILED "8.21.1911.

Patented Jan. 7, 1919.

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UNITED- STATES PATENT OFFICE.

RUDOLPH BECKER, 0F ROSELLE PARK, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

GUIDE FOR STRAW-BRAID-SEWIN G MACHINES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

'0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, RUDOLPH BECKER a citizen of the United States, residing at oselle Park, in the county of Union and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Guides for Straw-Braid-Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to. straw-braid sewing machines making a chain-stitch and including hooked and eyed needles op'eratively arranged below the throat-plate. It is especially concerned with edge-guiding means for use in connection with this type of machine.

In the manufacture of straw-hats it is common to fashion the halt-body, including the 'crown'and a part of the brim, separately from the brim and then to stitch them togethed. The brim is usually made of a pluralityof layers of material. By this method of manufacture it is possible to conceal from view most of the thread, leaving visible only loops of thread as long as the distance between ne'ed-les. In uniting the edge-portions of the hat-body and. brim it is desirable to conceal the long thread-loops between successive needle punctures. v

This invention aims to provide new and improved edge-guidingmeans for bending the under of the layers of a brim to one side during the stitching, operation after which the under layers may be bent back glued and ironed flat thus effectively concealing the major portion of the thread.

The construction preferably comprises a rack movable lengthwise by a pinion and carrying a pair'of relatively adjustable edgeguides whose active material engaging portions are located in advance of the needles and above the throat-plate which is underout in such a way as to form a warped surface that deflects the under of superimposed plies of braid from a. fiat condition transverse to a bent condition to one side of the line of stitch-formation. One of the edge-guides, preferably the upper, carries a separating lip and is-made adjustable relatively to the other edge-guide so as to permit the edges of the braid being arranged out of alinement if desired as when it is wished to make what is known as a corded edge. 7

.The'invention also consists 1n certam de- Patented Jan. 7, 1919.

Application filed February 27, 1917. Serial No. 151,187.

tails of construction which will appear in the following description of the deyice shown in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a side elevation of the attachment in use, the work being indicated in section. F 2 and 3 are a plan and an end elevation respectively, of the attachment and Fig. 4 is a cross-section on the line 4 4, Fig. 2.

The invent-ion is embodied in a chainstitch machine employing a pair of upwardly directed needles N for passing the thread through the material- The needles are supported and actuated from beneath the throat-plate 1 of the machine through the feed-dog slot 1 by any suitable means such as shown in patent to Jasper, No. 857,070, issued June 18,1907;

The throat-plate 1 is secured to the endcap 2 within a recess 3 by screws 4, being formed in any suitable manner to provide an undercut portion defining a warp-ed surface comprising a forward separating part 5 and a deflecting and bending part 6, located in advance of the needles, and a holds ing-vcrtical part 7, located at one side of and extending rearwardly beyond the needles.

'Above the throat-plate 1 in advance of the needles N a pair of edge-guides 8 and 9 are arranged. One of the guides, preferably 9, has a lip 10 for separating the hat-body-ll from the hat-brim 12, as clearly shown in Fig. '1, so that an intermediate layer of the braid 13 regardless of its thickness will abut against. the lower guide 8 in making a corded edge, 2'. 6-, an edge having an intermediate layer 13 projecting from between the layers 11 and 12 of the hat-brim, as shown in Fig. 1 I

The lip 10 also serves to restrain curling of the intermediate layer 13; The edgeguides 8 and 9 are bent as shown in the drawings and are relatively adjustable, a slot 8' being provided for this purpose in the horizontal arm 8" of the lower guide to receive the screws 9 tapped into'the horizontal arm 9" of'the upper guide. ,The lower guide 8, preferably but obviously not necessarily,-is

pivoted on the stud-screw 14, tapped into the 23, the upper guide 9 being beveled, as indi:

cated at 24, to permit the lip 10 being extended close to the up-turned toe 25 of the Presser-foot in order that the upper layer of braid 11 may be smoothed out before it'- reaches the stitching point.

It will be apparent'that the construction described ,afi'ords simple and compact means for concealing the stitches. The edge-guides are laterally adjustable for several purposes.

The guides maybe used for making straight or corded edges, for varying the position of the line of stitching relative to the edge of the brim, and also may be thrown out of efiective operative position by swinging them upwardly on the pivot 14: in order to clear the end-cap of obstructions in the gen eral stitching operations for which a machine is largely used.

'xWhile broadly" from certain aspects the a construction embodying the invention is applicable to machines having a needle or needles directedfdownwardly, 6., supported and actuatedfrom above the throatplate, it is to be noted that it is, especially advantageous in machines having a needle or needles directed upwardly, 2'. e.,supported to'act from below the throat-plate, the ad vantage consisting in the closeness with which the vertical holdingportion 7 of the warped surface below the throat-plate may be located to the needles as clearly evidenced by an inspection of Figs. 1 and 2.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention what I claim herein is f 1.1 In a guide for sewing machines having stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a throat-plate having a curved undercutjportion in advance of the needle for deflecting material ,from a position trans verse to a position to one side of the line of stitchingand an'edge-guide located above the throat-plate.

2. In a guide for sewing'machines, having stitch-forming mechanism including a a curved un- .deflectingfmaterial from a position trans verse to a posltlon to one side of the line of st tching.

-' 3. In a gulde for straw-braid sewing machines having stitch-forming mechanism including cooperating upwardly directed hooked and eyed needles, a throat-plate havingja' curved undercut portion and a divid ingllip in advance of theneedles to deflect a line ofstitchin -layer of material from a fiat condition transverse to a bent condition at one side of the 7 v andan edge-guide located abovethethroat-plate;

ledge-guides, of said edge-guides,

4. In a guide for straw-braid sewing machines, a throat-plate, stitch-forming mech anism including a pair otneedles opera tively arranged below the throat-plate, said. throat-plate being undercut in advance oi the needles todeflect a layer of material. from a flat condition transverse to a bent condition at one side of the line of stitching. and an adjustable edge-guide located above the throat-plate in advance of the needles.

' 5. In a guide for straw-braid sewing machines having stitch forrning mechanism including a needle, a throat-plate undercut in advance of'the needle to deflect a layer of material from, a flat condition transverse-to a bentcondition at one side of the'line oi stitching, and a pair of relatively adjustable and superimposed edge-guides located above the throat-'platein advance of the needle.

6. In a guide for straw braid sewing machines having stitchforming mechanism in eluding a needle, a throat-plate undercut in advance-of the needles to Ideflect a layer of material from a'flat condition transverse to a bent condition at one side of the line of stitching, and edge-guiding and separating means located in advance of the needle'and "abovegthe throat-plate.

' 7. In a guide for straw-braid sewing machines having stitch-forming mechanism ineluding a needle, a'throat-plate undercut-in advance of theneedle to deflect a layer of material from a fiat condition transverse to rating lip, carried by one of said edge- "guides, and means for simultaneously adjusting both guides toward or away from the'line ofstitching.

9. ,In a guide for straw-braid sewing machines having stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a throat-plate undercut in abent condition at one side'of the line of stitching, a pair of relatively adjustable a material separating lip on one their. relative arrangement.

pair of edge-guides located advance of the needle to deflect a layer of material from a flat condition transverse to V I means forpermitting both guides beingv thrown to an ,efi'ective or 'inefi'ective position without alteration of chines having titch-forming mechanism including a needle, a throat-plate undercut in advance of the needle to deflect a layer of material from a fiat condition transverse to a bent condition at one side of the line of stitching, edgeguiding and separating means located above the throat-plate in advance of the needle, a pivotal support for said means, whereby they may be thrown out of the way, and a rack-and-pinion for adjusting said means toward and from the line of stitching.

11. In a guide for straw-braid sewing machines having stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a throat-plate undercut to define a warped surface comprising a separating part, a bending and deflecting part, and a holding-vertical part whereby the under of superimposed layers of material may be separated from the upper layer and deflected to one side of the needle as it passes the stitching point.

12. In a guide for straw-braid sewing machines having Stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a throat-plate undercut to define a warped surface comprising a separating part and a bending and deflecting part located in advance of the needle, and a holding-vertical part located at one side of the needle.

13. In a guide for straw-braid sewing machines having stitch-forming mechanism including cooperating upwardly directed hooked and eyed needles, a throat-plate having a curved cut away portion beneath the material supporting portion to lead the under of superimposed plies of material past the needles entirely to one side thereof.

14. In a guide for sewin machines having stitch forming mechanism including a needle, a resser-foot having an up-turned toe, a throat-plate having an undercut portion for leading the under of two superimposed plies of material laterally past the needle, an edge-guide for the upper of said superimposed plies of material, a second edge-guide for a third ply of material, a lip carried by one of said edge-guides and cooperating with the up-turned toe of said prcsser-foot to Smooth said third layer of material before it reaches the needle.

15. In a guide for sewing machines having stitch forming mechanism including a needle, a throat-plate having ahorizontal dividing lip and an under, curved deflecting portion in advance of the needle, and a vertical guiding portion at one side of the needle, whereby layers of material may be divided and the lower one deflected from a position transverse to the line of stitching to a point at one side thereof.

16. In a guide for sewing machines having stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a throat-plate having a dividing lip in advance of the needle and an undercut deflecting portion curving to a point at one side of the needle.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

RUDOLPH BECKER.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents etch, by addressing the Commissioner of Intel", Washington, D. 0." 

